I like the 383 engine. But for dirt
I like the 350 crank and the 400 block it will turn 8000 rpm with all stock rotating parts.
If you use the the 400 crank 3-3/4 stroke it wont turn hi rev's maybe 7200 on a good day but will definatly pull some logs up the mountain.
personal best is 352 C.I. on the shorter tracks 400 block with a 327 (3.25) crank revs 9000 and holds together real good.
now theres a lot more than just putting cranks with blocks there always has to be some machine work done,
and you have to deside what rod length you want the longer the rod the slower the torque comes in. On a short rod engine it may be to torquie off the corners you might have to back the camshaft off 2 degrees or more. But on a 5.7 to 6.0 inch rod you will need 4 to 6 degrees of advance cam timing but before you go and do this stuff you need someone that has a great deal of experience look at your junk cause everything changes everything especially on the Camshaft, Lift how far the valves opens Duration How long it holds the valve open Ramp angle How quick it closes the valve, lobe center very touchy subject most cams are ground on a 106 lobe center, but 20 years ago while working with Crane Cams and developing 9:1 compression racing engines we found out if you close the lobe center to 101 we could fool the engine into thinking it was a high compression engine 12.5 :1 and get a 200 lb weight break. There is no substitute for weight the less you have the faster you will go and if its
un-sprung weight thats everything below your springs its an amazing difference. ok I could go on and on but im sure im boring someone with this.
To figure you Cubic Inch I have used this formula for 35 years
bore x bore x stroke x (pi squared) .7854 x (how many cyclinder you have) should look like this on your caculator.
example of the 352 racing engine 4.155 x 4.155 x 3.25 x .7854 x 8 = 352.53
Maybe next time we will talk about compression ratio and how to figure that or crankshaft to rod ratio or anything about racing engines.